Riding the Roof of the World: A Motorcycle Journey Across Deosai Plains from Skardu

Deosai Plains National Park

Nestled high in the Karakoram range, the Deosai Plains of Pakistan offer one of the most surreal and exhilarating motorcycle journeys imaginable. Often referred to as the “Land of Giants,” Deosai is a vast alpine plateau that stretches over 3,000 square kilometres at an average elevation of 4,114 meters (13,497 feet). Approaching it from Skardu—an emerald gem in Gilgit-Baltistan.

🛣️ The Road from Skardu to Deosai: Climbing into the Clouds

Mansur Rock, Skardu, looking towards Sarfaranga Desert

The journey begins in Skardu, a town cradled by jagged peaks and turquoise lakes. From here, the road to Deosai winds upward through the village of Sadpara, passing the serene Sadpara Lake. The initial stretch is paved but quickly gives way to gravel and dirt tracks. As you ascend, the terrain becomes increasingly rugged, with switchbacks carved into steep cliffs and narrow passes that demand full concentration.

• Road Condition: Expect a mix of broken tarmac, loose gravel, and muddy patches—especially after rain or snowmelt.

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🌄 Deosai Plains: A High-Altitude Wonderland

Once you crest the final ridge, the landscape opens into the vast, treeless expanse. It's like entering another world—rolling meadows, snow-capped peaks on the horizon, and skies so wide they seem to swallow you whole. Locally, it is known as Little Mongolia, and it is not hard to see why.

• Flora: In summer, the plains burst into bloom with wildflowers—blue poppies, gentians, and edelweiss dotting the grasslands.

• Fauna: Deosai is home to the endangered Himalayan brown bear, golden marmots, snow leopards, and migratory birds like the lammergeier and Himalayan griffon.

The air is thin, the wind brisk, and the silence profound. It’s not just a place—it’s a feeling.

🏕️ Nomads and Ancient Routes

For centuries, Deosai has served as a seasonal pasture for nomadic Balti and Gujjar tribes. In summer, their yak and goat herds graze the high meadows, and you may encounter their canvas tents and friendly faces along the way. Historically, Deosai was also part of a trade and pilgrimage route connecting Baltistan to Ladakh and onward to India, threading through the high passes of the Himalayas.

🌊 Sheosar Lake: The Crown Jewel

Sheosar Lak with Nangar Parbat in the background

One of the most breathtaking stops is Sheosar Lake, a sapphire nestled in the heart of Deosai. At over 4,000 meters, it’s one of the highest lakes in the world. The water is mirror-clear, reflecting the mighty Nanga Parbat on a clear day.

• Best time to visit: July to September, when the snow has melted and the flowers are in bloom.

• Camping: Pitch a tent near the lake for a night under a billion stars.

  
  

🧭 Descent Toward Astore

If you're continuing toward Astore, the descent from Deosai is equally dramatic. The road snakes down through the Chilam Valley, offering views of pine forests and cascading streams. It’s a gentler ride than the ascent from Skardu but still demands caution.

📝 Final Thoughts

Traversing Deosai by motorcycle is a journey that etches itself into your soul. It’s not just about the ride—it’s about the raw beauty, the silence, the stories whispered by the wind. Whether you're a seasoned rider or an adventurous soul, Deosai will challenge you, change you, and leave you longing to return.

So gear up, ride slow, and let the Land of Giants show you its magic